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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Looks pretty cool Jay

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    @Wyoming
    Thanks Seth. Turned out to be quite a bit of work but it is getting there... slowly but surely...

    **UPDATE**
    Went ahead and reinstalled the 16.8v Novak Super-Duty XR speed control onto it's custom mount mid-chassis and it sure does take up a lot of room...



    Dual Novak cooling fans installed and wired using a Y-harness plugged into the dedicated fan port on the ESC.



    Also upgraded to some stiffer Associated shock springs from their Traxxas E-Maxx shock conversion kit.





    New clutch & 90T spur gear w/18T pinion gear. Also pictured is the Traxxas VXL Rustler, all steel gear transmission, and custom dirt shield.






  3. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    Decided to replace the old body too. Body just arrived yesterday and I need to fabricate some new body mont brackets in order to mount the new shell securely to the chassis. Already sketched-out a design that should do the trick. I will use this sketch as a pattern and whittle them out of some aluminum. In fact the rear's have already been cut and are mounted...









    Thanks for checking out the TLT-1. - Arco



  4. #44
    teebeehex Guest

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    Somehow, I think this is more than your average TLT now!

    Be sure to post video when you have it up and running again

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    @teebeehex
    Thanks Daniel. Still a work in progress... seems to be taking forever, I know, but my helper always seems to be passed-out and of little help to his dad, but I shall manage somehow...



    Let's see now.... The body mount brackets are made from some 1/8 inch ornamental extruded aluminum so they are pretty stiff on their own, but I did make some tubular braces and a radio tray to help stiffen things up even more. To start, I used some 3M spray adhesive to apply the paper pattern then started cutting them out.



    Once I had them roughed-out, I used some more of the adhesive and glued the two brackets together in order make them identical. Once the outer shape was finalized, I started measuring and laying out the mounting holes. There are extra holes for the body posts that add a little bit of extra adjustability to the height of the body on the chassis.







    Once the brackets were finished, I wet sanded them with 600 grit sand paper to give them a brushed type finish. The rear of the body has pre-drilled holes and they are slotted so I made a large washer from some styrene to help support the body. I also added a brace in the back that I had left over from the chassis. Up front, I added two threaded aluminum tube braces that I had left from a High-Lift brush guard. I had to trim 5mm or so from each side to make them fit and they bolted in nicely.










  6. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    After test fitting the body again, I went ahead and made a custom radio plate that would help tie the rear mounts together. There was just enough room under the bed to make it work and still leave some space for plenty of batteries. Still need to add a mount for the receiver arial. I think I have a drop piece from all the cutting that will work...









    Baby Josh says thanks for taking a look at dad's truck everybody! - Arco



  7. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Douglassville, PA
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    Love the aluminum fab work. Adhesive....hmm. That's not a bad idea. I usually clamp them together and drill one of the holes (very carefully) then put a bolt through, keep it tight and then drill the next hole. Bolt that up, and then it is nice and solid so the rest of the holes can be drilled, or the parts can be filed/cut together. Really keeps things square. Never thought of an adhesive, that might work ever better as the bolts can get in the way sometimes.

    The Wild Dagger style body may be one of the best MT bodys out there. Looks like it has found a good home!
    Certified Tamiyaphile

  8. #48
    teebeehex Guest

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    Oh Arco, your little helper is not passed out, just dreaming up new builds for you and he to work on!!

    Great tip on the adhesive, I tend to use the method OSRC mentioned above. Your final product, as in the fabbed bits, are always so nicely finished, too.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    @ OldSchoolRC & @ teebeehex


    Thanks. Glad you guys like my tip. That one is an old-school, low-tech way to make stuff out of metal using hand drawn paper patterns. Be aware that my parts were covered with tape and then the pattern was applied. You can glue it strait to the metal, but this stuff sticks so hard you will need lacquer thinner to remove it. Depending on what the material you are cutting, the glue and or lacquer thinner removal method may damage the finish on you part. Mask the material with tape, apply a light layer of glue to both the pattern and the piece of metal, then allow then to tack-up a few seconds and apply the pattern. I also used clear packaging tape over the pattern to help it survive while cutting out my parts. Here is the stuff I use. I think I bought it at an automotive paint supply. Had the can so long I can't seem to remember....



    Made a rare trip to the local hobby shop yesterday to pick-up some painting supplies and a servo extension. Bought a couple cans of paint and vinyl masks to spray the TLT shell. Added that stuff to the list of things like the Tamiya decal sheets and other spray bombs I had on hand that will be used to finish the Penguin R/C TLT-1 build. Stayed-up all night painting... still not finished though... :rolleyes



    Thanks for taking a look - Arco



  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Johnston, Rhode Island
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    Still not finished yet though, but here is a sneak-peek for ya'll.






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